Most people who land on this page are comparing a personal loan against something else: a stack of credit cards, a home-equity line, or just staying put. The number below is only half the decision. The other half is what you're replacing.
Estimates only. Not financial advice.
Average rate on a 24-month personal loan as of February 2026: 11.40% (Federal Reserve G.19). Full table on the average rates page.
| Term | Monthly payment | Total interest |
|---|---|---|
| 24 months | $937 | $2,490 |
| 36 months | $660 | $3,760 |
| 48 months | $523 | $5,100 |
| 60 months | $439 | $6,340 |
A longer term buys a smaller payment and a bigger interest bill, every time, no exceptions. The question worth asking isn't which row looks affordable this month, it's which row you can live with for the whole term without needing another loan to cover the gap.
A personal loan is unsecured. No car, no house backs it up, so the lender is pricing pure trust in your ability to pay, built almost entirely from your credit file, income, and existing debt load. That's why the advertised "rates from X%" banner rarely applies to the person reading it: it's the rate for the thinnest slice of applicants with the strongest files. Everyone else lands somewhere up the range.
If the loan is meant to pay off credit cards, the comparison only works one way: take the blended APR you're actually paying across those cards today, and compare it to the APR this loan quotes you, not the advertised one. If the new number is lower and you close or freeze the cards, the loan can save real money. If you keep the cards open and keep charging, you now owe the loan and the cards, which is a worse spot than you started in.
The payment formula is M = A times i, over 1 minus (1 plus i) to the negative n, where A is the amount, i the monthly rate, n the number of payments. On $20,000 at 11.5 percent for 60 months, i is 0.115 divided by 12, about 0.009583. The numerator, A times i, comes to roughly 191.67. The denominator works out near 0.4366. Divide the two and the payment lands close to $439. Change any of the three inputs and the fraction resolves differently, which is exactly what the calculator above is doing on every keystroke.
See exactly how much of every payment on your numbers goes to interest versus principal.
Some lenders take an origination fee straight out of the disbursement, so a $20,000 loan can land in your account as $19,400 while you still owe payments on the full $20,000. That fee is baked into the APR, which is why comparing loans by APR rather than the sticker interest rate protects you here. It doesn't come back if you pay the loan off early either, so ask about it before you sign, not after.
Only if the personal loan APR is meaningfully below the blended rate on the cards you're paying off, and only if you stop charging the cards back up. Run both the cards' current payoff timeline and this calculator's numbers side by side before signing anything.
Advertised rates are usually the lowest tier reserved for the strongest credit files. Lenders price personal loans mainly on credit score, income, and existing debt load, so a thinner file lands higher up the range regardless of the headline number.
It doesn't come back. An origination fee is typically deducted once, up front, from the amount disbursed, so paying early saves you future interest but not the fee already taken. Check for a prepayment penalty separately; not all lenders charge one.
Yes. Open the amortization schedule below the results for a month-by-month breakdown of interest, principal, and remaining balance on the exact numbers you entered.